Powder based 3D Printer

3d_printer_training_guide

This page is purely historical, as this tool has been retired. Due to never actually being functional, it has been given to Dan DeDagne.

• Assess current state
• Clean and flush system
• perform maintenance routines as per the manual

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Z400/Z402/Z402C (Discontinued)

The Z400 3D Printer is the entry-level concept modeling solution that delivers great models quickly and inexpensively. Models can be used for design verification, communication and as patterns for casting applications. Z Corporation offers a variety of materials for use with the Z400 3D Printer. Beginning with our two basic materials, a versatile and inexpensive investment casting and a high definition composite material, our customers can add infiltrants to satisfy a wide range of modeling needs at an affordable price.

• Build Speed: 2 layers per minute
• Build Volume: 8“ x 10” x 8“ (203 x 254 x 203 mm)
• Layer Thickness: User-selectable at the time of printing: 0.003”-0.010“(.076-.254 mm)
• Equipment Dimensions: 29” x 36“ x 42” (74 x 91 x 107 cm)
• Equipment Weight: 300 lbs. (136kg)

• See manual for now

This machine was generously donated August 16, 2013 by Andrew Hendriks.

The machine is a Z-Corporation Z402

Z400/Z402/Z402C (Discontinued)

The Z400 3D Printer is the entry-level concept modeling solution that delivers great models quickly and inexpensively. Models can be used for design verification, communication and as patterns for casting applications. Z Corporation offers a variety of materials for use with the Z400 3D Printer. Beginning with our two basic materials, a versatile and inexpensive investment casting and a high definition composite material, our customers can add infiltrants to satisfy a wide range of modeling needs at an affordable price.

The people to contact for the latest information about the printer:

• William (email here?)
• Dan D (email here?)
• Gerard

Ask the contacts.

STOP IMMEDIATELY. Tell the contacts. Put a temporary note on the machine stating that it is out of order.

ZCorp z402C Manual (Our printer is a z402, the C is the color model but otherwise the same) 238_09501_z402c_user_manual.pdf

• Offical files, include firmware and software can be downloaded from the zCorp support site

Printer powder and binding agent can be obtained (location missing).

• Cooking Sake (Rice Wine) works well as a binding agent (http://open3dp.me.washington.edu/2010/10/sake-binder/)
• Powder: HydroPerm (http://open3dp.me.washington.edu/2010/11/plaster-powder-vohp-version-out-of-the-bag-hydroperm/ http://www.sculpturesupply.com/list.php?sf=subcategory&vl=Hydroperm&cat=Plaster+%26+Gypsum+Cement)

• Z402C Firmware (v14.015, v.6.002 monochrome) 228 Kb May-20-2008 4:33pm: 238_z402.zip

• http://blog.freesideatlanta.org/2011/07/making-print-cartridges-for-z400z402-3d.html
• http://open3dp.me.washington.edu/2011/07/off-road-powdering/
• http://open3dp.me.washington.edu/2010/11/plaster-powder-vohp-version-out-of-the-bag-hydroperm/
• http://open3dp.me.washington.edu/2010/10/sake-binder/
• http://open3dp.me.washington.edu/2009/09/xf1-experimental-fluid-%E2%80%94-400-class/
• http://haveblue.org/?p=1149
• http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/zcorp402/conversations/topics

<a id=“Tantillus”>

It's bright pink, you can't miss it

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See http://www.tantillus.org/Tutorials.html for excellent tutorials on how to use it.

<a id=“Makerbot”>

Update as of August 12, 2014: Information on this page is relevant for both the Makerbot Thing-o-Matic and the Makerbot Cupcake, both currently being stored on the top shelf of the 3D printer workbench for spare parts or as the basis for other projects. See below for history notes.

In late 2010 VHS members crowdsourced $1800 in 18 hours and collectively purchased a Makerbot 3D printer and buttloads of ABS filament in a rainbow of colours.

In late 2011, the Extruder on the 'bot was upgraded to the StepStruder.

The Makerbot is available for anyone to use on “Open Tuesday” nights on a first-come first serve, but be kind and share basis.

If YOU want to print on the VHS MakerBot, here are a few things you may want/need:

ReplicatorG software

You may need to install the FTDI drivers for your OS so your computer will recognize the Makerbot when plugged in via USB.

Select your serial port under the Machine→“Connection (Serial Port)” menu.

Under the Machine→ menu of the ReplicatorG software, select “ThingOMatic w/ HBP and Extruder MK6”

Only re-calibrate the printer if the first layer looks incorrect. See bellow for directions on re-calibration.

NEVER leave the printer running unattended. (If something goes wrong, someone needs to be in the room to press the emergency stop)

The z-axis is the most critical part of a good print. If it's too high or too low the print will not work well or may even damage the machine.

To do manual tweeking of the z-axis, under Machine→Motherboard Preferences is the settings for stop-height above bed. If you increase this value the head will be lowered towards the table and if you decrease it'll lift the head. Don't ever adjust this by more than 0.4mm at a time to make sure you never drive the hot-end into the table.

If the print is not adhearing to the table or does not look fully filled as in there are spaces between the filaments, you need to lower the z-axis a little (Increase the value of the z-axis).

On the other end of things, if the head is either having troubles extruding the first layer or there is a lot of plastic pressing up around the nozzle to make little fins in the first layer, the head needs to be lifted some (decrease the value of the z-axis). Normally I'd adjust by 0.2mm at a time til it was printing nearly flat across the top.

The new hot-end installed mid-May no longer has any issue with going hotter than 235C (There is no PTFE). This does not mean you should ever pint hotter than that as ABS starts to put off toxic fumes above that temperature.

Normal ABS prints should be between 220-235C. The colour does make a difference; coloured filament tends to be higher temperature. I suggest 225 for most prints unless you're printing very fast where 230 or 235 is necessary.

For PLA, 180C is suggested as a starting point. Speed of prints comes into play as well and I've gone as high as 220C on very high speed prints on Andrew's printer.